Pools, braais, and rain

Our second week in Windhoek was a relatively slow one. Polytechnic doesn't start back to classes until first week in February, so their faculty are mostly on holiday until this coming Monday (19th). We had a bit of time to get settled and find our way around town, as well as getting the house arranged as we wanted. Tristan has changed bedrooms, finding windows (with breeze) to overpower the Strawberry Shortcake theme of the room with the windows. The astronaut-themed room did not have much breeze and it's been in the high 80's and low 90's here--our house is like most without AC or furnace. Kelly has rearranged the living room furniture, stored most of the Egyptian-themed pharoah ornaments from the room (kind of spooky always looking at you with that odd glare), and has really shaped up the kitchen as we continue to figure out we don't have a certain item.

My week has mainly focused on the pool. Never thought I'd write that in a blog, but we have a small pool in the backyard. Problem is that it is not heated or covered. The temp gets up to about 79-80 during the day, which is bearable now. But, it slips to 74 in the morning. The pool also loses lots of water through evaporation, and water is expensive (and scarce) here in dry Windhoek. We started the week working on a cheap idea for a water heater. Fellow Fulbrighter Reid had an idea to pump water through dark pipes, as the Namibian sun is brutally hot and direct--certainly the best place on earth for solar power, as there are rarely clouds (but read below). So, we went to the store and bought 25 meters of dark blue pool hose. The ingenious system pumps water from the pool, through the coiled hose (where the water is warmed), through the filter, and back into the pool. We can report limited success--the water returning to the pool is definitely warmer to the touch, and holds promise. But, the 5-6 degree (F) slippage in temp at night will never allow our crude little solar heater to hold its own. We went to a pool store to look at proper covers and they wanted US$500 for on that fits our pool. Not in the budget. We've purchased a tarp, and will report on the success of this system in later blogs.

Our first meal in our house was a BBQ-type meal, with chicken kabobs purchased at the store and grilled on the infamous Lark-0-Matic Beach Grilling System. For those of you who are not familiar with this device, it's time to become informed. Essentially, it is a aluminium pan made for roasting turkeys that is transformed into a portable grill--the kabobs are placed across it and the charcoal inside. Go here to see more information on this system--it was developed in Puerto Rico when Larkin had $200 worth of chicken and vegies and no grills on the beach with which to cook. We have now spread the Lark-o-Matic to Africa, and hope to have all continents in play soon.

But, admittedly, the Lark-o-Matic did not live up to expectations of the locals, who take BBQ'ing to its fullest extent that I've ever seen. BBQ here is called 'braai' and it is all open-flame. Can be used as noun or verb or adjective. Attend a braai. Braai out. Buy some braai meat. In most backyards, is something that comes close to looking like a BBQ pit at a large state park in the states. Ours is housed under a thatched roof, which comes in handy when it rains and the braai must go on. Our first use of the braai was last night, and we cooked lamb chops and some bread called 'toasties'. Specifically sold for the braai, the 'toasties' are little squares of bread that come pre-buttered in the middle; ours had sun-dried tomatoes and rosemary as well. Tasty treats. The lamb was good, as well. May be hard to leave our braai in a year--it comes with a in-braai light so you can braai in the dark. We used charcoal for our first braai, but will go to the commonly used firewood for our next braai. Every grocery store sells firewood in packets a bit larger than you'd buy at a gas station in the states.

The week ended with a wonderful thunderstorm, which transitioned into a gentle rain for most of the evening and night. It had not rained since we arrived. Windhoek's climate is very dry, and we constantly find ourselves thirsty and drinking water. Saline nasal spray is pretty common for newcomers to adjust, and several newcomer kids get nosebleeds because it's so dry. Suffice it to say, we were happy to see precipitation, and Tristan decided to run out and enjoy getting wet.

Shopping is a group effort....

Greetings everyone! I understand there are questions about "shopping" here in Namibia. Shopping is a big adventure here - at least for us because you never know what you are going to find or how much it will cost.

As far as groceries - we have a smaller grocery store right in out neighborhood and then there are larger supermarkets around the city. Our neighborhood store is called "Baines" and is in a small shopping center with a pet shop, hair salon, cafe, etc. The biggest grocery store I've heard people talk about is Super Spar (not sure on the spelling) but we have not shopped there yet. We've tried a large "Pick n Pay" grocery store - about the size of Super Saver in Lincoln. We were just there today and the lights went out right when we were done shopping and ready to check out. I think they just blew a fuse because the other stores in the shopping center/mini mall still had lights on. It took awhile for them to get the lights back on so we found chairs in the back of the store where they were selling plastic patio chairs. Some of the freezer lights were still on so you could see a little. One other shopper had a flashlight (don't know why) and was continuing to shop using a flashlight!

The Pick n Pay has a bakery (ALL the stores bake bread each day) with these awesome jumbo rolls they call "broachens." They are like a cross between a roll and a hoagie. You can just eat them or make a sandwich. All stores have broachens but the Pick n Pay has cheese broachens and garlic broachens to use when you "braai" (rhymes with try), or grill out in the backyard. Having a braai party or just using your braai is a way of life here. Many kinds of meat (chicken, pork, beef, lamb) come already marinated and even on kabob skewer - ready-made for the braai. Lamb is readily available and seems much cheaper than in the U.S.

The bakery also had several kinds of different meat pies (hot and ready to eat) that cost less than a dollar American - just meat (chicken, sausage, etc.) wrapped in a flaky crust. Some come in the small pot pie tins like in the U.S. At lunch time there will be a line of workers getting a meat pie for lunch. Side note - ground meat is called "mince" here.

Another great store another Fulbrighter friend (Joy from Michigan) introduced me to is the "Fruit & Veg" store in downtown Windhoek - and it lives up to its name. More variety and better quality produce than the regular stores we've been to so far. If you like fruit, Namibia is the place to be. Super mangos, nectarines, peaches, pears, prickly pear (like the cactus), many kinds of apples, and I even saw "paw paws." Now, we have not tried them yet but my grandmother, Wanda Derry, used to sing us a song when we were little about "pickin up pawpaws and puttin em in the basket." I never knew what a paw paw was but they are as big as a squash! Speaking of squash - they have lots here including pumpkins. They have a small dark green squash (orange-sized) called a gem squash that is supposed to be similar to an acorn squash on the inside. The pineapples are luscious - they are smaller than in the U.S. and are VERY prickly but very good and the core is much softer than back home. Remind me of the pineapples in Puerto Rico actually.

Lettuce seems to be a special item as it is not always available. The Fruit and Veg gets leaf lettuce sometimes (I'm told) and they did have iceberg but I'm not sure I've even seen lettuce anywhere else yet. Tomatoes are available - smaller and they come totally green but they ripen quickly in your window and have more flavor than "store" tomatoes in the U.S. I'm totally loving the avocados here - they are 2 to 3 times bigger than the avocados in Lincoln and cost about 99 cents in American dollars - and they are always perfectly ripe here (at least so far).

Now my stampin' friends already know how much I love to make salsa (with avocados) but my salsa dreams have been crushed as I have yet to find a can of black beans and tortilla chips are nonexistent here!! Can I go a year without chips and salsa???? Flavored chips are readily available everywhere but NOT tortilla chips or even plain Frito chips. They have Doritos, Lays, and other brands but they all have "sour cream and onion" or "sweer chili pepper" flavors. Now Joy did take me to a Woolworth store in the mall that had a "gourmet" food section in the back where they did have some Mexican food items (pricey) and they did have ONE very sad small bag of tortilla chips left on the shelf for about four dollars American and the chips were all crushed to crumbs and dust. Maybe if I hit it on the right day there might be a good bag - but it's not looking good. Mexican type food is hard to find apparently - Pick n Pay had a few "Old El Paso" products but not many.

ANYWAY, back to the Fruit and Veg store - one of the best things about the store is the counter after you check out where you can get an awesome fruit smoothie. They have a big glass case with ALL kinds of cut up fruit and you can pick any kind/combo of fruit you want (they fill up a bowl) and then add a little fuice and some ice cream - and for one dollar American you've got a luscious treat - very cheap for a fruit smoothie!! You can even have them fill up a bowl and just take the fruit home and save yourself the labor of chopping all the fruit.

Well, I'll add more later - but all of us Fulbrighters are constantly sharing tips on what we found in this store or that store or asking each other if you've seen "this" or "that" - like flat sheets for the bed - they are a rarity here. People sleep on a fitted sheet and then have a comforter with a duvet cover - nothing else on top! We noticed this trend in London in our hotel as well!

Bye for now!

Getting settled: the nitty gritty

The Powell's are in their house and we have unpacked all suitcases. As of today, we have internet. The last few days have provided several fun experiences, and we'll try to post as many as we can in the next few days. First...some of the nuts and bolts of getting settled. Many of you have asked for nitty-gritty details, so here they are.

The House. We are the proud residents of a 3-bedroom house. We have a stack of keys and most of them do not fit any lock that we can find. At the moment, we can unlock about 3 of the doors. Most locks (at least in houses of the vintage of ours) have skeleton-type keys. Most things work in the house. Our clothes washer is on the back porch, so it doesn't matter that it leaks a bit. House is made of concrete, perhaps over bricks. Windows have no screens, except for in one room. We are now used to all kinds of insects flying in and out of windows. It's a good incentive to keep your lights off at night--avoids moth attraction. There is a remote control for our gate and we park under shades that are over our driveway. The pool is our new item of interest, and we are learning all about filters and pH and such.

On Your Guard. The landlord provided a 24-hour guard for our house while it was empty and for a few days until we get settled. As of this writing we still have a guard. They arrive in the back of a 'bakkie' (pickup truck)--one of the 8-10 folks in the back jumps out and the old guard jumps in. They hang out around the house, although they don't have a radio or gun or even a large stick. Usually, they have no food with them, although one gal did bring a bunch of stuff with her. Others have friends drive by and drop something off. Or, they just go without. So, we've been taking the new guard (they change at 6:00 a.m.--the honking truck is a good alarm clock) coffee to introduce ourselves. And, we take them a plate of food when we are here. We have not asked and do not want to know what they are doing for a toilet.

Parking Lot Guards. Kelly promises to write about products we have encountered at stores as we've been stocking our shelves. But, to follow up on the 'guard' topic, I'll note that parking lot gards are the most interesting thing we found so far. Imagine pulling up to the Walmart Parking lot in the US and having a guy come up to you and ask, "Can I watch your car?" Or, you stop on the street to go to your favorite eating establishment. Guy comes up...points at your car. You give him a thumbs-up. Car-watching is a whole economy in Namibia, and the routine (which Tristan strickly aheres to) is that they have to catch you on your way into the store and ask or indicate by pointing. You reply "yes" or give thumbs-up. They go to your car and put a little piece of paper under the wiper, so show the world that your car is being watched. Each guy (haven't seen any gals doing this) has a section of the parking lot. When you come out, you put your groceries away, and he comes to pick up the paper from your wiper. You give him $1-3 Namibian, which is currently about 10-30 cents US. If he doesn't come up at either point, you don't have to pay--this is what Tristan watches for. "He didn't ask us, Dad!" "Yes--he nodded at me, Tristan." It can be very subtle. Mostly, it appears to be the non-natives that pay for this service, and some people have suggested that you are actually protecting your car from the car guards by paying them. Who knows. But, I am thinking about this line of work when I return to the states. I'm thinking about working in front of an ice cream store, so I can immediately spend my earnings.

Cable TV. We have satellite cable TV at the house. We've not had cable for 8 years, so Tristan thinks he had died and gone to heaven. The timing of usual shows is off a bit. I saw the Daily Show with John Stewart at 9 a.m. on Sunday morning, and it was on CNN instead of Comedy Central (which we don't get). To pay for cable, you take a card out of your cable box and run to the cable shop--which is a very large, nice building on Nelson Mandela Avenue. You give them the card and tell them to recharge it. Our cable is about US$45, so it's not cheap. But, it was the first electronic thing we got working at the house. We pay in cash. The prevous Fulbrighters left their card for us, so when they ask, "J Conroy", I reply "yes". No need for confusing things by being honest.

Cell phones. We bought 'empty' cell phones for about US$20. Then, we went to a store and bought a SIM card, which gave us our phone number. Next step is to buy minutes. We initially bought N$150 cards (so, about US$15), and calls cost N$2.50/minute. Interestingly, texting (or SMS'ing) is free (up to 30 free texts for the $150 card we bought). So, we have become 'texters', after hardly ever using this service in the US (because it costs more to have a plan with texting). It is very common to receive texts from folks--"Come over at 6:30 tonight". It is illegal to drive while using the cell phone.

Internet. This was by far our most bewildering experience to date. When we arrived, we asked several people how to get internet. There are DSL plans through the home phone, but we have two cell phones and don't really need a home phone, too. So, we decided to get a mobile, wireless internet plan through the Namibia Telecom. It comes with USB dealy-bobber that plugs into your computer and accepts the signal. It's mobile, so we can use it when we move around the country or around the house or around the city (like if I take it to work). It is possible that plans like this are available in the US, and we don't know about it. But, the majority of Namibians get their internet in this manner, and it really seems to be more advanced than plans available in the US. So, there you are, Yankee. The world tops us again. I guess those of you who use Blackberry-type mobile service would be similarly mobile, but to have it available to the masses for use with laptops seems to be pretty high-tech. Of course, laptop thefts are also in the paper each day, so we have to keep them secure. The bewildering part of the experience was actually getting the service. We had heard from a co-Fulbrighter that he walked in and got his service in about 15 minutes. I tried to do the same, but at a different location. I was told I would have to pay N$1750 deposit for the dealy-bobber USB device, and that I would have to sign a 2-year contract. Next day, different place--they wanted N$2000 deposit and said it would take 4-5 business days for me to get approved. Another place wanted a copy of my pay slip to get me approved. The fact that I'm paid in the US was difficult to explain. Today, I walked into the place where our friend had gotten his, and found the right person. After paying N$500 deposit, I was giving the dealy-bobber and he even helped me install it on my laptop--and offered to come to the house if it didn't work. Gave me his personal cell phone number. Internet cost N$185 to set up account and N$289/month for the service. There is some unspecificed limit to the number of MB you can download for that price, but at the moment they do not have a system in place for keeping track of that for each person.

Electricity. I thought I would close by describing the way most people pay their electric bill. Our house's bill is paid by the Polytechnic, so this is not how we pay (we don't pay). But, our colleagues have shown us their systems. Each house comes with an electric box--which looks very much like a time card box in a factory. There is a little display that shows how many kilowatt hours you have left on your account. When you get down close to 0 (as close as you want to be), you need to fill up your account. So, they drive to the grocery store or a gas station or many other stores and purchase electricity. They get a card, and rub off the lottery-type number to reveal their code. Punch the code into your machine and you're set for another few days. The interesting thing is that it really allows you to monitor your electrical use. One friend described finding her machine very close to 0 at 9:30 pm. The gate to their house is electric, so she shut down everything in the house, jumped in the car, opened the gate, and went to the store. Can you imagine calling a friend, asking if you can hitch a ride to the store because you're trapped with no electricity in your house with your car behind the gate?!

So, lots of fun adventures.

Doing the double-nickel

Readers of NTN will be amused to learn the Larkin has mastered driving on the left side. So much in fact that today he got a speeding ticket. This third-person writer was witness to the Powell's first official interaction with the Namibian law enforcement. Turns out you have to obey speed limits here, as well. The up-side is that the penalty for driving 79 km/h in a 60km/h zone was about US$13. Still, we believe Larkin will try to avoid the fuzz in the future. Stay alive at 55...

We spent the day finding our post office box, and can confirm that it exists and you can send all kinds of yummy treats our way at the address posted to the left side on this blog. We also visited a small-scale game farm just outside of Windhoek and drove our little Toyota Corolla through the gravel roads. We saw kudu, gemsbock, wildebeast (we think), and warthogs on the mammalian side of things. Larkin still hasn't made it to the Embassy to unpack his book boxes, where he stowed his bird book. Tristan found lots of rocks on the drive (photo at right of dry creek bed).

On the way home, we found another reason to drive slowly. A 'backie' (pickup truck) had just come in contact with two warthogs on the highway. Talk about your pork barrel highway projects...! Our Toyota would not have fared so well.

Tristan begins school on Wednesday, and we hope to be in our house by Friday.

Around Windhoek

We got off to a great start on our second day in Windhoek with a tour of the city. Polytechnic asked one of their alums, John, to give us the tour. John is a government auditor, but is thinking about moving into tourism--so we were one of his first tours. If today was an indication, John has a good career in tourism ahead.

John picked us up in his vehicle from the hotel, and Larkin promptly went to the front/right side of the vehicle, thinking this was the passenger side. Of course, that was the driver's side here in Britain-influenced Windhoek. So, we may not be completely ready to do this driving thing. Tomorrow, we will work on going to the proper side of the car.

We started our tour up on a high hill overlooking the city. Windhoek is in a basin surrounded by mountains. They are not significantly high mountains, but make some good scenery in all directions. We didn't take the camera on the tour (doh!), but the photo at right is a photo from the top of our hotel, showing the mountains to the south.

John took us to the central government area--showing us the Parliament building. Namibia has a parliament with 72 members, composed of members of parties in the percent of votes they get in the last election. So, if 60% vote for SWAPO in the election, they get 60% of the parliament membership. There is another legislative body made up of representatives from each area of the country. So, we just pulled up to the Parliament building, and John asked if we could tour it. The guard said yes, and we were off on a tour of the hallways to view artwork put in place before and after Independence. Beautiful collages chosen to show unique things about Namibia and important people. As one might expect, the people who led them to Independence are highly revered. The fact that we could just walk into the Parliament building on a Sunday and have the guard turn on the lights for us was interesting. Surely couldn't do that in Washington, DC, or even in Nebraska's statehouse.

We drove past the new palace for the President--being built by Chinese contractors. According to John, this is because the government doesn't trust local contractors--word might leak out about the secrets built into the building. So, there is an enclave of Chinese and Korean contractors who build various projects for the government. Later, we got to see the warehouses where these workers live--kind of an odd China Town in an industrial district.

John took us to a fort built by the Germans in 1890. Inside the fort is a Namibian history museum, including a section about rock art in the country. FACTOID: Namibia has the oldest known African art--25,000 years old. Our little rock hound, Tristan, was entranced by this exhibit, and he was gathering rock samples everywhere we went all day. He reports lots of mica, but I will let him expound on that on his blog.

Much of the rest of the tour was through various neighborhoods in Windhoek. John explained how the neighborhoods were originally set up as white-only, black-only, or colored-only. The latter was most interesting, as the 'coloreds' were allowed to be closer to the white neighborhoods; they are the result of mixed marriages many generations ago. John explained this was his family's history. Now, if you have money, you can live anywhere you want. So, the racial borders are down in neighborhoods and cemetaries. But the economic barriers continue to keep the neighborhoods somewhat similar to their historical composition.

Learning the history of racial tensions is frustrating and saddening, but seems to be critically important to comprehend the current state of our host country. One such story concerned one of the black-only neighborhoods that was physically moved in 1956, because it was too close to white neighborhoods. There was some violence of this, as the residents protested. But, in the end, residents were moved to Katutura, the black neighborhood. It's name, translated to English, means "a place they don't want to be." There were some interesting 'informal markets' as John called them (they looked like farmer's markets but pretty crude) where local residents buy cooked meat, produce, and other things. John thought we'd probably want to avoid these areas in our future shopping ventures.

One area of Katutura has small brick houses--about big enough to have 2-3 small rooms at the most. The doors had letters on them for the family's heritage--which tribe or region they are from. The last area John took us through in Katutura had shacks made of shiny tin. It literally covered a couple sides of a hill--a very large area. The residents are natives from the northern part of Namibia and come to town hoping for work. These look like they would be extremely hot (like solar ovens?) in the Namibian sun. So, as John told us--this is the part of Windhoek that looks like Africa. Back we went to our luxury hotel.

Before getting back, John showed us a lake (they call the tanks sitting on top of hills, "reservoirs" and the dammed lakes are referred to as 'dams', as in "I went over to the dam" would mean you went to the lake.). He explained the water was not good to drink and the fish could not be eaten. Evidently, Malaysian textile folks set up a shop near the lake in the past few years and their toxic dyes got into the lake. The Malaysians have since left. In addition, the lake is near Katutura, which has very few working sewage systems. So, several reasons to not fish in that lake. Luckily, this is not the source of Windhoek's water supply.

There were birds everywhere, and at some point, Larkin is going to have to get his bird books and binocs and spend some quality time getting familiar with the local fauna. Stuff flying around with vibrant colors, long tails, wacko color combinations, etc.--will be fun when we get a chance to do it.

Last note--John showed us lots of construction projects. Everything was tagged as either 'before Indendence' (1990) or 'since Independence'. The implication being that the South African government was responsible for things built before Independence, which are still being used. But, there certainly was a tone of pride when John showed us a police station or a soccer stadium or anything else built after Independence--meaning that Namibians had done it themselves. It's a tone of pride in country that was refreshing to see--certainly a foreshadowing of more to learn and appreciate as we explore this fledgling nation.

A great day. More to follow.

On the ground in Africa..first day

We made it to Windhoek without any major hiccups. Kelly may have a different story to tell about a 10-minute period of time at the check-in at Air Namibia in which we were first told that we would have to pay bookoo amounts for our extra luggage. But, we convinced them that we had already paid the excess poundage fees when we flew to London on Delta, and a very nice man (whom I have affectionately named Ralph) saved us a large amount of money (equivalent to several organ donations) by waving the bags through. We are not completely certain why Air Namibia has such small weight restrictions, compared to Delta and other US carriers. But, a word of warning to others following in our footsteps--it would go smoother to check bags all the way through to Windhoek from the US, so that you don't have to re-check them in London. We did enjoy our time in London, however, and Kelly has promised to blog about her favorite parts of that stop, if I ever get off the computer.

We were met at the airport by two Embassy officials who figured out a way to squeeze our luggage into their minivan, and we were off to look at our new house. First wildlife species were spotted on the drive from the airport, including a welcoming party of baboons, lined up on fence posts along the road.

First stop was at the gates of Polytechnic to get the house keys. Then, off to the house. Interesting turn of events when none of the keys fit. It turned out those were my office keys. And, we learned shortly that the house was not ready for us, quite yet. So, we're currently put up in the best hotel in Windhoek while the final touches are made on the house.

We remember the reminders from several folks who told us to be ready to say, "That's just the way it is" and roll with the punches. Actually, in the end, this was not a bad turn of events. We got a quick, hot shower, as well as instant access to phones and internet (which, by the way, you pay for by the minute). The Rector of Polytechnic actually met us at the hotel with his assistant, and they are very helpful. Universities vary in their support of Fulbright scholars, and we're glad Polytechnic has been through this dance several times.

Tristan already started to remove leaves from the pool, and we have hopes to be in the house sometime this week. For the moment, though, we are very happy in our hotel room and look forward to exploring Windhoek a bit more tomorrow. We get our car sometime early in the week, and will begin driving lessons....Kelly noticed an "L" in the back of some cars, which stands for "learner". Perhaps we will post 6-7 L's across the back of our car to make the point that we are not used to driving on the left.

More soon--just a quick post to confirm our arrival and the official start of Project Namibia for the Powell's. We have officially ditched our winter clothes and are looking for suntan lotion ASAP tomorrow.

Gray lines in sport hunting

Our last day in London, mid-way to Namibia, gave us an opportunity to explore the British Museum. We've got some photos posted of the museum on the Picasa site (link to album in upper left corner of blog).

One of the exhibits stimulated me to think a bit about the gray lines in sport hunting. This is a topic that I enjoy struggling through with students in my courses, as we explore the ethics of sport hunting. In the Assyrian exhibit, there is a magnificent room lined with stone reliefs showing a lion hunt of the Assyrian king. They were from a palace in Ninevah, in modern-day northern Iraq, and date from about 600 BC.

As the photos below show, several lions (perhaps up to 15, representing different parts of Assyria) were released from cages. The king used this opportunity to show his power over his people, in symbolic fashion, by killing all of the lions. Actually, he had several archers who wounded the lions, and other men who herded the lions into a corral--after which, the king dispatched the lion (see photo on right).

Professional wildlife biologists struggle with this issue constantly--more than 2500 years after these reliefs were constructed. Several years ago, Nebraska's governor put a lot of pressure on the Game and Parks Commission to increase pheasant populations (a non-native species in Nebraska) by releasing pen-raised birds. Besides the fact that pen-raised birds do not survive very long in the wild (not even long enough to be hunted, really), the ethics of releasing a non-native species into an ecosystem is quite controversial--as you might expect.

As I begin working in Namibia, I'm also fully aware that I will probably find several types of situations where hunts are not really 'hunts' in the full meaning of the word. So, does this matter to the end-goal? Animals are often confined by fences--how large does a fenced area have to be to encourage fair chase? Animals may be purchased and brought to ranches for specific people to hunt. Is that ethical? Is it even ethical for hunting to become a sport that may become limited to upper-class hunters because of high hunt fees? When do the efforts of a couple guys/gals to put up a blind and save its use for their friends turn into an upper-class hunt club? Don't those upper-class folks pay a lot for conservation? When does the "we're paying for conservation" argument fail to be meaningful?

So, an unexpected period of reflection in the British Museum. I'm sure you'll see some thoughts on this throughout future posts.