Thanksgiving in Namibia

For those wondering how the holidays are celebrated in Namibia, here's a list of what is happening at Thanksgiving time:

• We celebrated on Thanksgiving Day by going out to eat with our Fulbright friends, the Bates family. No turkey on the menu, and we realized it might be our last time at the Portuguese place that we've frequented in the past. So, we all ordered things we'd been looking at but hadn't ordered before. Larkin's monster beef kabob skewer was good. Kelly's grilled meat with beans and rice was nice. Reid wasn't sure what to make of his traditional dish that he ordered. When it arrived, it was garnished with a raw egg. Not in the description on the menu.

• The Windhoek holiday craft sale was in full swing last week. It reminded Kelly of the annual St. Mark's craft sale in Lincoln. Many local folks have craft businesses as a way to have some additional income, and Christmas was in the air.


• There is no Black Friday shopping day here. But, Kelly got a taste of Black Friday parking lot stand-stills when she delivered Tristan to a birthday party on Saturday. It was election day, and the party was held next to a polling place. And, next to a grocery store. It was the day after pay day. So, the election and pay-day combined to stop traffic in all directions.


• Turkey is not a typical thing to find in grocery stores here. We heard that the Spar, an up-scale local grocery, might have them. After searching for several minutes, we asked at the meat counter. They had them, but they were in the back. And, the only option was a 3-kg (about 6 pounds) turkey. But, nice birds.


• When Larkin was down south at Farm Namtib last week, he told his hosts that we were hosting a holiday dinner. They asked if we needed a turkey. Turns out these enterprising farmers, on the edge of the Namib Desert, raise a small flock of turkeys. So, just when we thought there might be no turkeys available in Namibia, we had turkeys running out our ears.


• We had the Nature Conservation department over to the house for Thanksgiving celebration on Saturday. The turkeys were cooked on the braai, and we added the braai 'doors' to make an oven. We compared two methods of cooking the turkeys. A favorite local method for cooking a chicken is to insert a 'tall boy' beverage can in the bird, so it roasts standing up with moisture delivered internally. One of Larkin's colleagues has taken this method to the extreme by welding a 'frame' to hold the can on the braai. We borrowed it. It turns out that the turkey's legs are a little longer than a chicken's, so the turkey appears to be relaxing as it grills, with the legs pulled out to the sides. We also tried the traditional roasting pan. We put a dutch oven with water beneath the birds to provide moisture and cook them with indirect heat (a suggestion from a turkey griller in the US...thanks, Brenda). The braai reached a fairly constant temperature of about 190 degrees F, and we cooked them for about 3.5 hours. The winner: tall boy. Hands down the fastest to the finish line. But, the turkeys were cooked well using both methods. Not quite as moist as the turkey bag/oven method, but quite nice.



• It is tradition at Namibian parties to bring your own meat. Even though we told folks that we were supplying hartebeest stroganoff, mashed potatoes, and turkey, our friends came laden with more protein. After the turkeys were cleared, sheep steaks and boerwors (sausage) were cooked up by respective braai-ers. We will miss the depth of the grilling custom that we've experienced in Namibia. It really is an art form, and worthy of copying the actual physical braai area, as well as spirit of gathering to socialize and enjoy an evening together.
• The rainy season has begun, in sporadic fashion. Late afternoon thunderstorms or showers are becoming more frequent.
• Windhoekers are preparing for the annual exodus to the coast, as temperatures rise. The whole town pretty much closes down as people move to their second homes or holiday rental homes at the coast. Kelly's preschool closes this next week, Tristan's school is out on Dec. 4 (no more baseball), Kelly's women's club had its last meeting until January, and many of Larkin's fellow lecturers are making plans for moving to the coast now that exams are over.
• We have much for which to be thankful. A great year. Now, off to pack.